Dr. Green echoes Dr. Shirazi’s sentiments. Both professionals also note azelaic acid’s antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, excellent for treating skin conditions like acne and rosacea, as it kills breakout-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation. This versatile acid, also considered a gentle exfoliant, stimulates cell turnover as well. As such, Dr. Green says that azelaic acid “can help reduce the appearance of acne scars.”
Who can use azelaic acid?
The good news is azelaic acid is safe for all skin types, but with that being said, Dr. Green advises those with sensitive skin to start using the ingredient “once a day, increasing the frequency to twice a day after several weeks.” And, if you experience any irritation, it’s best to consult your doctor before continuing.
You also need not worry too much about adjusting your entire skin-care routine to incorporate azelaic acid. Fortunately, Dr. Green and Dr. Shirazi agree that azelaic acid is generally gentle enough and safe to use with other ingredients like vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids. However, says Dr. Green, “If you have prescription-strength azelaic acid, Retin-A, or other topical creams, you should consult a dermatologist.”
Depending on your skin type and concerns, azelaic acid can be found in over-the-counter products in all sorts of strengths, from as low as 1% to as high as 15%, with the highest prescription-strength concentration coming in at 20%, per Dr. Shirazi. However, lower concentrations can be just as effective and “may help prevent skin irritation” for those with reactive, sensitive skin, says Dr. Green. “Skin-care products with a low concentration of azelaic acid can be beneficial when it comes to unclogging pores, preventing acne breakouts, and soothing skin inflammation,” he adds. For those with acne-prone skin, lower concentrations of azelaic acid are often combined with other actives like AHAs and BHAs for a multi-pronged approach.
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